LG Appliance Repair in Katy, Richmond, Fulshear, Sugar Land & Rosenberg

Linear compressor stops cooling while lights and fans still work

Both compartments drift warm, interior lights work, controls respond, and the freezer back wall shows little or no frost.

LG’s Inverter Linear Compressor is the subject of class action litigation alleging premature failure – the claims describe tubing prone to corrosion and pitting, small holes that let air in, and the discharge valve failing first as the weakest component. A 2020 settlement covered refrigerators manufactured between January 1, 2014 and December 31, 2017. iFixit lists cheaper causes of the identical symptom: loose or oxidized electrical connections, a tripped or failed compressor thermal overload, a failed run capacitor, or an inverter board that does not reach 200 volts output within two minutes.

Confirm the compressor is genuinely dead before anyone calls it dead – test the connections, thermal overload, run capacitor and inverter output first, and read the blink codes, since iFixit documents two blinks as a piston stroke overrun and five as a locked piston.

Washer stops mid-cycle on OE with water still in the drum

Cycle halts with standing water and OE on the display.

LG states that OE means the washer is unable to drain the water used during the wash cycle, and lists a kinked drain hose and a clogged drain pump filter as causes. LG also notes that excessive suds can trigger the code by creating air pockets the drain pump cannot effectively remove – so the machine reports a drain fault while the pump itself is fine. LG’s test is to listen during a spin: if you cannot hear the humming sound, LG says the drain pump is not working properly and the unit requires repair service.

Clear the pump filter and check the hose run, then test the pump for draw. A clogged filter and a failed pump look identical on the display and cost very different amounts.

Dryer reports d80, d90 or d95 and needs several cycles to dry

Clothes damp after a full cycle, drying times climbing, d80, d90 or d95 on the panel.

FlowSense measures exhaust restriction, and LG states that d75, d80, d90 and d95 indicate the exhaust duct is clogged 75%, 80%, 90% and 95% respectively. LG notes that if the ductwork is too long or has too many bends, blockages can occur, and that not all blockages and restrictions can be easily seen. iFixit adds faults that mimic a blockage: a hi-limit thermostat that opens at a lower temperature than designed, fooling FlowSense into reading the dryer as hotter than it is; a failed cycling thermostat or outlet thermistor; or a faulty main control board when the duct is genuinely clear.

Check airflow at the outside vent hood with the dryer running, then work backward. LG’s instruction is explicit – a severely restricted exhaust may create an unsafe environment, and do not use the dryer until the exhaust system has been cleaned and repaired. If the duct is clear, we test the thermostats and thermistor rather than repeat a vent cleaning that will not help.

Dishwasher shows AE or E1 and refuses to run

AE or E1 on the display, cycle will not start or stops partway, often with no water visible on the floor.

LG states that AE or E1 means a leak inside the dishwasher has activated the float switch, and that the cause must be found and fixed before the dishwasher can be used again. LG describes the leak as usually the result of an overflow, caused either by the unit not being level or by the wrong type or amount of detergent – filling the dispenser past its marked levels, or using dishwashing liquid rather than dishwasher detergent, creates suds that make water overflow.

Find the leak rather than reset the float. LG’s own level check is to remove the bottom rack, pour about a gallon of water into the bottom, and see whether it pools to one side. We check level that way, confirm what detergent has been used, and trace the overflow to its source.